Kenya Part 1 was all about my time in Amboseli National Park. Next, we head to the Maasai Mara, which is renowned for its incredible wildlife and the dramatic Great Migration—one of the most breathtaking natural events to witness.
Here’s why it’s so popular:
- Great Migration: This epic event sees millions of wildebeests, zebras, and antelopes migrate from the Serengeti in Tanzania to the Mara in search of water and grazing. It’s a once-in-a-lifetime experience for many!
- Big Five Sightings: The Maasai Mara is one of the best places in Africa to spot the Big Five—lion, elephant, buffalo, leopard, and rhinoceros.
- Cultural Encounters: Visitors can engage with the Maasai people and learn about their vibrant culture and traditions.
- Stunning Landscapes: The endless plains and breathtaking sunsets make for unforgettable scenery, perfect for those dreamy travel photos.
- Luxury Safari Camps: From luxurious lodges to intimate tented camps, the Maasai Mara offers accommodation that blends comfort with authentic safari experiences.
While the Great Migration often steals the spotlight, the Maasai Mara boasts a rich tapestry of life every day of the year – with much smaller crowds. We visited after the Great Migration and were able to enjoy the following (while often feeling like we had the park to ourselves):
- Lion Prides Roaming Free: Witness the majestic big cats as they patrol their kingdom, with playful cubs never far behind.
- Elephants in Harmony: Spot gentle giants trumpeting their way through the plains, nurturing their young in close-knit herds.
- Elegance on the Horizon: Graceful giraffes reaching for the sky, against a backdrop of endless green savanna.
- Hippos and Crocodiles by the Mara River: Experience the thrill of spotting these massive, ancient creatures basking along the riverbanks.
I really enjoyed the peace and tranquility of the park. My understanding is that this is not the case during the Great Migration so I was happy to experience the Maasai Mara like I did.
We arrived to Maasai Mara via a charter plane and our pilot made some scenic detours along the way so we could witness the beauty of Kenya from above. We saw thousands of flamingos flying, as well as elephants, giraffes, zebras, and more from above.
A little over an hour later, we landed at the airstrip where our safari vehicles were waiting to whisk us away to Angama Mara for lunch at their shamba (the Maasai word for garden and the new nickname for my husband who should have been a botanist) over looking the plains below.
At this point, I should probably explain the geography of the Maasai Mara. It is located in southwest Kenya and is part of the larger Serengeti ecosystem that spans across the Tanzanian border. This majestic reserve covers an area of about 1,510 square kilometers and is named in honor of the Maasai people who inhabit the region, as well as the Mara River which traverses the reserve. Here’s a breakdown of the geography:
- Vast Open Plains: The landscape mainly comprises open grasslands dotted with acacia trees. These plains are perfect for spotting wildlife against the horizon—think lions lounging in the sun or elephants on their leisurely strolls.
- Rivers and Marshes: The Mara and Talek rivers flow through the reserve, creating lush riverine woodlands and important water sources for animals. These river crossings are where much of the dramatic action unfolds during the Great Migration.
- Rolling Hills and Escarpments: The Oloololo Escarpment forms the western boundary of the reserve, offering stunning vistas over the plains, perfect for sunset gazing and epic photo opportunities.
- Diverse Ecosystems: Apart from the grasslands and rivers, the Maasai Mara also consists of acacia forests and savannahs that sustain a rich variety of flora and fauna.
- Climate: The Mara’s weather is generally mild because of it’s high elevation and location just south of the equator.
Angama Mara is perched upon the Oloololo Escarpment, 1,000ft above the plains of the Mara below. The name of the lodge was inspired by the Swahili word for ‘suspended in mid-air’ and no matter where in the lodge you are, you are guaranteed the best seat in the house. In fact, many scenes from the movie Out of Africa were filmed on the land where Angama Mara was later built.
En route to our tented camp, we saw some baby hyenas and sat there for about an hour watching them.
Mobile tented camps offer an unrivaled way to follow the world’s greatest wildlife occurrence —the Great Migration. Here’s how they work:
- Mobility Based on the Migration Pattern: These camps are strategically positioned and relocated several times a year to be in proximity to where the migrating herds are expected to roam. This ensures guests always have front-row seats to nature’s grandest show.
- Authentic yet Luxurious Accommodations: The tents might be temporary structures, but they aren’t devoid of comfort! Think of well-appointed tents complete with cozy beds, ensuite bathrooms, and sometimes even flush toilets and hot showers—offering the charm of camping with the comforts of a hotel.
- Intimate Wildlife Encounters: Because these camps move with the herds, guests enjoy intimate proximity to wildlife. Picture stepping out of your tent to witness thousands of wildebeest and zebra grazing nearby—it’s as close as one can get to the action without disturbing the animals.
- Cultural Vibrancy: Being situated in such a dynamic environment, guests often have opportunities for cultural experiences with the Maasai people, learning about their lifestyle and participation in conservation efforts.
- Eco-sensitive Approach: Many of these camps are designed to have a minimal environmental footprint. They emphasize sustainability and conservation, ensuring the beauty of the Mara is preserved for future generations.
Since we were not following the Great Migration, our camp was set up along the Mara River. Since hippos are nocturnal, we could hear them grunting all night alongside the flowing water of the river. It was like being surrounded by a sound machine that lulls you to sleep.
As you can see, this is glamping at its finest. Just like every Angama experience, we really did not have to lift a finger – everything was taken care of for us. We were served breakfast under a tent with views of hot air balloons and elephants making their way along the river.
The next day, we saw a lot of wildlife including a lonely lion without a pride, baby elephants, and some quarreling hippos out of the water.
Our guide Saitoti was absolutely fantastic. He is a Gold Level Safari Guide which means he obtained certification through an organization like the Field Guides Association of Southern Africa or similar reputable bodies, which require them to meet high standards in knowledge, skills, experience, and often involve detailed assessments and rigorous examinations. These guides are recognized for their deep expertise in wildlife behavior, ecosystems, conservation practices, and client interaction, ensuring they provide truly top-tier safari experiences
Saitoti is an open book and allowed us to ask all kinds of questions about Maasai culture. He had a unique perspective because as a child, he met Americans who sort of adopted him from afar. He stayed in Kenya, but his education was a paid for and they still visit regularly. He had a good sense of humor and was so knowledgeable. He repeatedly knew exactly what a wild animal would do which I found fascinating.
For example, he received word that there was a cheetah sighting so we hightailed it to that location. The cheetah was stalking a baby wildebeest, so we stayed to see the process unfold. Saitoti knew exactly what was going to happen and told us what to look out for throughout the process. The cheetah took almost two hours to make it a short distance so that he did not raise any suspicions and to conserve energy because he was weak. While it was extremely sad to witness death, seeing the circle of life in action was fascinating. Saitoti pointed out how skinny the cheetah looked and that he likely had not eaten in 3 days so he really needed to make this kill. Since I am not a vegetarian, I really couldn’t judge!
During the migration, there are so many people in the park that you only can wait around for a few minutes and then the rangers make you move on. Since we were there during the off season, we were able to wait the couple of hours it took for everything to unfold. What was most surprising about the whole spectacle is that the wildebeest left when one of their own was being attacked. However, the zebras tried to help. Ultimately, they failed but at least they tried! This is why the cheetahs do not attack the zebras because zebras try to help each other out, and apparently, they have quite the temper!
I will spare you the photos of the actual kill, but I was so shocked at how close we were able to get (this was a recurring theme throughout my trip!). The Land Rovers are fascinating – they can cover any terrain, and even when we thought we were stuck, we were not! Eventually our cheetah time ended because a rain storm came out of nowhere! It actually hailed on us!
Luckily, Saitoti was prepared with heavy duty rain ponchos and then braved the elements to get us enclosed. Once the rain ended, there were blankets stored under the seats to warm us up.
The above picture was taken before the rain storm, but it just shows how well we were taken care of at all times – water, sodas, coffee, tea, and snacks were available at all times, and we never lifted a finger!
Stay tuned, there is so much more to share! And if you would like to plan your own African adventure, please reach out below!
